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| Tuesday, 12-Sep-2006 09:01 |
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History of LFB - Interview with Mr. Rauno Aaltonen (The pioneer)
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Mr. Rauno Aaltonen
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LFB in this wonderful masterpiece will be overwhelming.
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High speed, in 3rd, left 5 open & LFB will bring the tail out
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It is an excerpt from the interview. I get this from the website. Mr. Aaltonen is currently the instructor for Mini, worldwide. He is known as one of the pioneers of LFB technique, together with Mr. Timo Makinen (and not Timo Salonen or Tommy Makinen).
Rauno Aaltonen on Left Foot Braking
reprinted from Goblins Gazette Vol II, No 4, (Dec '68/Jan '69)
(If you know the original source of this article, please contact me)
Rauno Aaltonen, 1965 Rally champion of Europe, explains this highly specialised technique to Wilson McComb, BMC Competitions Press Officer.
McC: Every time rally enthusiasts get together nowadays, sooner or later you will find them talking about left-foot braking. It is a technique which we associate particularly with Scandinavian and Finnish drivers, and their use of it is perhaps one of the reasons why they seem to be unbeatable in international rallies. How did you first hear of it Rauno?
A: About four years ago I heard a rumour that the big boys, like Erik Carlsson, were using left-foot braking, but it seemed impossible to get any details. I couldn't find anyone to explain it to me, and Erik himself said he he was not using it. So I had to learn it for myself. At first it made me much slower, because although the technique is not easy, it is certainly convenient. If you panic when you find yourself going too fast into a corner - and of course, you have a minor panic every time you go too fast into a corner! - it is very tempting to use the brake too much and too often if you have learned a convenient way of doing it. But now, after much practice, I think I have perfected left-foot braking.
McC: Does the technique apply exclusively to front wheel drive cars? Or is it better or more effective with FWD?
A: No, not at all. It has advantages when driving both types, but the advantages are different.
McC: Perhaps, then, we should consider them seperately, especially as they react quite differently when one enters a corner too fast. In general, I think we can say that a front-drive car will understeer, whereas a rear-drive car will oversteer; it is the tail which will break away first when you go over the limit. Let's start with the front-drive car, since you have achieved most of your rally success with a front-drive Mini Cooper. And let us emphasise that throughout this discussion we are considering entering corners far too fast; that is; at speeds altogether higher than any sane driver would use on public roads. You are driving your Mini Cooper over a special stage of a rally, a closed section of mountain pass or forest track where all competitors are timed and the fastest man wins. How do you approach the corners?
A: Well, some people always throw the car sideways before a corner. (cf. Roger Clark) It helps to reduce the speed quickly at the last moment, and of course it looks very impressive for the spectators! But when you are driving fast over an unknown road, nine corners out of ten look slower than they really are. So my technique, quite simply, is to go into every corner a little faster than the speed which appears to be the maximum for each one. This means in that practice, nine corners go just right but on the tenth one I find I am going too fast. By the time I have realised this, it is much too late to throw the car sideways - there is no more time for that. I am going off the road - straight off with the front end, you understand. Now I keep the steering wheel position just the same, and I keep the accelerator still hard down, but very quickly I hit the brake pedal hard with my left foot - I don't keep it down, I just hit it. This causes the rear wheels to lock before the front wheels, because the rear wheels are running free and the front ones are being driven by the engine. Now, locked wheels have very little grip, so the tail begins to slide out, the car turns on its axis, and you can continue through the corner, still on the road instead of using the ditch. I could do exactly the same thing with the handbrake, but I haven't time to take my hands off the steering wheel to use it. Also the handbrake is seldom so efficient.
McC: But all this must happen very, very quickly - the whole thing must be over in a fraction of a second?
A: Very true. This means you must have your left foot ready all the time, and then it becomes a great temptation to use it all the time. We used to say that if you have a close rival who is almost beating you on rallies, you must teach him left-foot braking - then he will not trouble you again for one whole season! When it is so easy to slow your speed at any moment, it happens that you start braking on the straights, too hard before the corner, on every corner. So you become too slow. Also, I have known cases where brakes have been burnt out completely in 20 miles by using them too much in this way. When trying to learn left-foot braking, many drivers are still accelerating with the right foot as they start initial braking for the corner with the left foot. This is nonsense - and besides, it is giving you most braking from the rear wheels at a time when the weight of the car is being thrown forwards. So at first I think it is better to use the right foot for initial braking. When you start accelerating through the corner, move the left foot from the clutch to the brake, to be ready in case you want to throw the tail out. Later, you can use the left foot for your straight line braking as I do.
McC: Now let's consider how left foot braking can be applied to a rear-drive car. Again, you are entering the corner too fast. What happens?
A: Normally, just before a corner you must get the car to drift slightly - and I mean slightly; I am very strictly against oversteering cars, which are going to much sideways. Let us say this car is perfect in handling - not oversteering, not understeering - it is neutral. So by putting full power on before the corner you have it drifting slightly, with the tail out a little. But now you find you have estimated the speed wrongly and the tail is going out more. You correct by steering the opposite way, but soon you will come to the full lock position - you cannot correct any more. And the car will be starting to spin. Now this is where you use the left foot instead of the steering wheel. Just before you reach the full lock position, and still keeping the power on to the rear wheels, you hit the brake pedal quite hard with your left foot. The front wheels lock and slide, so the front of the car comes back to the right direction for the corner.
McC: In fact, this is the exact reverse of the effect achieved with the FWD car?
A: Yes, but there are other advantages, too. When you are drifting nicely, with equal grip for all four wheels, it often happens that the inside rear wheel starts to lift. If you have no limited-slip differential, this wheel will immediately start to spin - and then you will lose all driving power to the other wheel. By using the left foot on the brake you can stop the inside wheel spinning and make more torque go to the outside wheel. It sounds very strange but it is true. Another advantage, for all cars, is this. With the brakes on; you cause a certain twist in the suspension which locks the joints and makes them stiffer. This makes the car more stable - there is less roll, it does not bounce and sway too much. That is very important.
McC: What advice would you give to the ordinary motorist who would like to learn the technique of left-foot braking in corners?
A: I have tried to explain that it is really quite difficult. A friend of mine in Finland, who tried it when cornering one day, unfortunately landed in a tree. Another friend in England, who make some experiments when driving in traffic, drove into the back of a very large bus. Please, if anyone is doing it, choose a place which is very quiet and far away from other cars, or there may be some nasty surprises.
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| Tuesday, 12-Sep-2006 02:23 |
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What is LFB?
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Left Foot Braking
Left foot braking
Most initial attempts at left foot braking scare most drivers into never trying it again. Your left foot is used to fairly robust uncontrolled stabs up and down on the clutch. Braking needs a little more delicacy.
Learning process
At first try to use the left foot on the brake on medium-fast straight roads (with no traffic). You find you’ll brake a bit harshly (which is fine). But you’ll find you forget to release your foot off the brake, so the brake pressure continues and the car decelerates even more.
The first trick is to train your foot to lift off gently to release the braking pressure. Why you do this I don’t know, I’ve taught a few people to left foot brake and they do the same thing every time. I’d have thought with the left used to controlling the release of pressure of the clutch it would be good at this, but not so.
From there build up the initial pressure to train your foot to press down in a controlled manner, while still also controlling the lift off. Now try this into faster corners where no gear change is needed. Next we go off to a (empty) car park, try bringing the car to a total halt from low speed, you’ll now find this Keep on pressing reflex is more noticeable. When you normally (Right foot) brake a car to halt, unconsciously you release braking pressure as the car comes to a halt, to the point where just as the car stops you’ve release almost al the pressure. With this lack of subconscious control in your left foot the car stops abruptly usually by nose diving and smashing your face into the steering wheel… again repeated practice releasing the pressure with the left foot before stopping give the foot the control it needs for more complex manoeuvres. Now you should be able to vary the pressure on braking and lifting,
NOTE: Always try this away from other traffic, as sometimes you forget which pedal to push, with rear ending consequences…
To make use of the left foot braking you need also to control the throttle at the same time, again on a faster empty straight road slip the car into neutral left foot brake and blip the throttle repeatedly to get the feel. Once comfortable, try applying pressure to the throttle while left foot braking, to feel the effect. From here the world of left foot braking is literally at your feet.
Places Area to gain.
Non gear change corners:
Left foot brake in all the way to the apex and your right foot can immediately get back on the throttle. This cut the delay in getting on the power.
Slower corners:
Big gains in late are available as with your left foot already over the brake, you can go from power to braking immediately.
Medium speed corners:
With most road cars the improved handling response with a little drag on the brakes make corner entry faster and more accurate. Pressing lightly on the brake with or with out the power on improves the poise of the car.
Fast corners:
With softly sprung road cars in fast bends, going from braking to accelerating upsets the car, You can balance the car by using both the throttle and brake together. On the way in apply the brakes and keep the throttle down, release the throttle more and apply more brakes to slow and balance the car, never lift of the throttle completely, then accelerate at the apex keeping some brake on only releasing them completely when the car is balanced again.
Ultra fast corners:
A dab on the brakes keeps the engine pulling and is better than a lift off the throttle (particularly if your running carbs).
Gear change corners:
Left foot brake in all the way to the apex and blip right foot to change gear (only works in higher gears, 3rd to 2nd is more tricky) and get back on the throttle.
Unknown corners, corrections and emergencies
When in rally mode charging around unfamiliar corners a left poised over the brake can either allow for a dab on the brakes to improve turn in, shed speed or come to a big stop when things have gone badly wrong.
There’s no doubt that left foot braking is better in emergencies if the foot is already covering the brakes, a heavy tug on the gearlever puts you into neutral while the left foot is already braking
Up someone’s rear:
Keep the left foot covering the brake, in case of emergencies. When preparing to overtake press the throttle and balance the speed on the brake, when going to pull out release the brake and press the throttle all the way down
Someone’s up your rear:
Dab your left foot on the brake just enough to light up the brake lights, great fun, especially under heavy acceleration really confuses them
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The (1997 Sauber) C17 is a conventional car with the now normal paddle gearchange, and traditional (foot pedal) clutch control...
'I have been asking for two pedal control (with a paddle clutch) for a year and a half,' adds Herbert. 'I want to try it, just to see what it is like. You can't really left foot brake with the pedals as they are now, they are too close. If you listen to the cars going into Becketts, it sounds as if Michael Schumacher is taking it flat. In fact, he is left foot braking against full power. We have to lift there."
(Interview with Johnny Herbert (Sauber Driver) Race Tech Magazine #19")
The quote above is meant to point out that, in top level motorsports today, the capability of a driver to left foot brake is increasingly a necessary skill if he is to succeed. Certainly this has been the case for some years now in F1 and World Rally. And as more racecars become equipped with semi-automatic gearboxes (the all conquering Audis at Le Mans for example) drivers are finding that full time left foot braking can give them an edge over competitors constrained (by ability or equipment) to traditional right foot braking.
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Even in race series mandating standard sequential manual gearboxes, left foot braking is more prevalent than one might think. This is due to the fact that the "dog boxes" in such cars allow up and down shifting without the use of the clutch (up shifts aided by an electronic cutout). During the latter half of the 1990's drivers in the very popular BTCC series could be seen left foot braking from the in-car footage as they banged down through the gears. Even Winston Cup drivers can be seen left foot braking on road courses such as Infineon Raceway.
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Braking with the left foot offers two distinct advantages. First, it completely eliminates the awkward transition period experienced when switching from braking, back to on-throttle. This transition occurs at the end of a braking zone when a driver has to momentarily lift the right foot from the brake pedal in order to move it over to the throttle pedal - a "dead-zone" so to speak. A skilled driver is able to reduce the unsettling effect that this transition has on the car, but it is still always there to some degree.
Second, when braking with one's left foot it is actually possible to brake while still on the throttle - to play the two effects against each other for short periods of time. This technique is most clearly illustrated by the reference to Michael Schumacher above. On many tracks there are certain corners where generally all that is needed is a momentary "lift" off the throttle in order to make it through. But anyone with a little track driving experience is aware that lifting during a corner tends to produce an unsettling effect on a car which is already near the edge of adhesion.
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However, an alternative technique is to remain at the existing throttle setting at this phase, and simply apply a small feathering of the brake pedal to ease the car around the bend. This has quite the opposite effect of lifting and actually causes the car to "hunker down" a bit. It settles the car through this critical portion of the turn. An auto-x slalom is also a place where left foot braking against engine power can be used to advantage. Most proficient auto-crossers will be adept at left foot braking, and will use it most any time that they do not have to heel-toe downshift for a corner.
But left foot braking is not only advantageous on the track. Once the driver is completely comfortable with the technique it can be used to good effect on the street. It can lead to smoother transitions at stop signs and when going over speedbumps and driveway entrances. Not to mentioning having some fun trail braking into a corner to show that SUV behind you who is really "Master of the Road" 
Ultimately left foot braking is a tool which can give a driver greater control over his/her car, and this is a good thing in any driving situation.
Warning - if you are not yet accustomed to left foot braking then it should only be practiced in a safe, closed environment, not on public roads or on a race track. The left foot is generally trained to modulate a clutch pedal. Learning to modulate a brake pedal with the left foot will take some time. Be safe.
One excellent place to practice left foot braking is at a karting track. All karts use a two-pedal setup and require that the left foot be used for braking
Ok, guys. All the best and keep up the good work.
Always remember, Safety First Last & Always.
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| Monday, 11-Sep-2006 10:01 |
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High heel? Not really, it's a "heel n toe" technique
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Heel-toe Downshift
Salam & hello. This has nothing to do with the high heel shoes or how to downshift while wearing a pair of high heel shoes. It’s something interesting to learn. Please read.
The heel-toe downshift is a fundamental technique to driving fast through corners. During a heel-toe downshift, you'll be steering with the right hand, shifting with the left hand, clutching with the left foot, and working both the brake and gas pedals with the right foot -- all at exactly the same time.
It takes some getting used to, and it takes repetitive practice to become smooth, and have it be second nature.
(However the photos attached are taken from one of the websites based on the Left-hadn drive car. I hope it doesn't confuse you. The attached photos are meant to give clearer techniques on Heel n Toe).
At first it takes a lot of concentration. You're doing a lot of things at the same time. Besides working on all the controls, you also need to be sensitive to the tire grip during braking, you have to be watching your reference points heading into a corner, and to make matters worse, if you're racing, you might have to be looking for traffic. However, after a couple of weekends of practice, you'll get the hang of it, and in no time you'll be able forget about your hands and feet, and concentrate on the track.
On the street when you approach a corner, you were probably taught to complete your braking before the corner, coast through the turn, then as you straighten out from the turn downshift, and start accelerating again. This works on the street, but it is entirely too slow a process for the race track.
For racing, the time spent transitioning from braking to accelerating must be absolutely minimized. You're racing! You don't want to be wasting a bunch of time coasting while you're switching between pedals (even if it is only 1/2 of a second). To maximize the speed and smoothness through a corner, it becomes necessary to do some cockpit acrobatics and operate the steering wheel, shifter, clutch, brake, and accelerator all at the same time.
On the race track, as you approach a corner, your right foot comes off the gas pedal and presses the brake with the ball of the foot. Before the braking is done, you need to shift gears so when the braking is done you can immediately be back on the gas. When the braking is almost done, your left foot pushes the clutch pedal in, and your right hand downshifts. However, while you've been slowing down, the engine speed has dropped. If you let the clutch out now, the car will jerk severely as the engine works like a huge brake. If you're at the edge of traction limits (which you should be), you'll lose control of the car.
To prevent this, something needs to rev the engine back up to the right speed before the clutch is released. The right foot is closest, so it is elected to tap the gas pedal. Even though the right foot is busy braking, you swing your right heel over the gas pedal and give it a short push (a "blip" as it is called) to rev the engine while the left foot also lets out the clutch (the ball of the right foot is still on the brake). The amount of blip, and the clutch release timing need to be perfected so there is a perfectly smooth transition when the clutch engages the engine. Meanwhile, the heel is rotated back off the throttle or “tekan minyak”, the ball of the right foot has still been braking, and has been easing off as the car approaches the turn-in point. The downshift should be completed before the braking is complete, and before the turn-in. As the engine and transmission are engaged, the braking reduced, and the turn-in begun as the foot makes a smooth transition back to the gas pedal. At first only enough gas is applied to sustain the initial corner speed, and then you gradually accelerate out of the corner.
The above description is the "what" and the "why" all mixed together, so let's look at the just the steps involved in the "what" part again:
• Lift the right foot from the gas pedal and press the brake pedal
• Just before the braking is done, the left foot depresses the clutch pedal
• The right hand downshifts (the left is still on the steering wheel)
• The right foot is still applying, but easing up on the brake pressure, then rotates so the heel is above the corner of the gas pedal
• The right heel gives a quick push of the gas pedal to rev the engine quickly (the ball of the foot is still on the brake easing up even more)
• The left foot releases the clutch, the right foot rotate off the gas
• The right foot completes the braking
• The right foot slides over to the gas pedal to assume the normal position only to maintain some pressure to sustain the vehicle speed through the first part of the corner. Then accelerating out of the turn.
The whole sequence above from the second bullet to the last takes less about half a second. This takes quite a bit of practice to get right. The whole idea is to transition between braking and accelerating with absolutely no delay, and with perfect smoothness. Done correctly, there should be no jerking of the car during the downshift and transition back to acceleration.
One other note about the above description. We have assumed the use of a street car, and a street transmission with synchros. If you're using a true race transmission without synchros, then you need to modify the above shifting with a double-clutch procedure. To do this, the clutch is pressed in, the shifter moved to neutral, and the clutch released. Then the accelerator is blipped, while the shifter is in neutral (again with the heel, while the ball of the foot continues to brake), the clutch pressed back in, the shifter placed in the lower gear, and the clutch released. This is required for maximum longevity of the transmission. If you expect to get in a race car some day that is likely to have such a transmission, it's a good idea to practice this shfting technique with your street car as well, even though it technically is not necessary.
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| Monday, 11-Sep-2006 09:12 |
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Advanced Driving - Little intro...
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Given taxi ride for a passenger during Lotus Track Day 1
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Taxi Ride 2 in Lotus Elise - Lotus 7.
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Driving Techniques Introduction
It is very easy to get caught up in the showmanship and prestige of expensive parts for your car, but the best investment you'll ever make in road racing is the time you spend tuning your driving skills.
In this section, my sincere intention is to introduce you to many of the basic driving techniques used for a standard/ race car driving. There are numerous details to be conscious of while driving especially during the high speed driving, and it will be difficult and overwhelming to remember them all the first few times out. Focus on one or two techniques each time you go out on the track. As each technique becomes second-nature, you can work on a new one.
No matter how good a driver you think you are, high performance driving is an entirely new level of driving that requires very specific skills if you want to be good at it. Good drivers, like all good athletes, have a natural skill, and yet are also smart and/or humble enough to know that there are known techniques they must practice if they are to be proficient. Even if you have natural talent, don't make the mistake of thinking all you need is a better car to improve your performance. Your driving skills can always be improved. Even the Gordon's, Andretti's, and Schumacher's of the pro-driving world continually analyse their driving so they can improve.
Many of the race driving techniques explained here can be practiced on the street, others simply cannot be. Where appropriate (meaning safe and useful), we will point out how to practice these skills during everyday street driving. As with any skill, "knowing" what to do is not the same as "doing" it. Practice, practice, practice. Time in the car, on the track, repetitively performing these techniques is the only thing that will make you good at using them. Often you'll find yourself thinking you're doing something right, only to recognize several months later, that you could do it even better.
Because there are so many things to remember and practice, be sure to read these sections often--you will forget a lot of its content.
Advanced Driving -- A Definition
Advanced Driving is the ability to control the position and speed of a vehicle safely, systematically and smoothly, at all times. It uses road and traffic conditions to make reasonable progress unobtrusively, with skill and responsibility. The skill requires a positive but courteous attitude and a high standard of driving competence based on concentration, effective all-round observation, anticipation and planning. This must be co-ordinated with good handling skills.
Advanced Driving is based on "the system of car control," which is defined as "a system or drill, each feature of which is considered, in sequence, on the approach to any hazard." In other words, the vehicle should always be at the right place on the road at the right time, traveling at the right speed with the correct gear engaged and always able to stop safely in the distance that can be seen to be clear.
A hazard is defined as anything that may cause a driver to change speed or course. Hazards include obvious features such as curves (bends) and intersections (junctions), plus other vehicles and pedestrians, but also include less obvious situations such as a minor movement sideways to avoid a small object on the road surface.
In simpler terms, Advanced Driving is a way of approaching and dealing with all hazards that is methodical and safe, and leaves nothing to chance. Its one overriding aim is to give a driver time to react and to deal safely with the situation, whatever the circumstances.
Safety First, Last & Always.
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| Monday, 11-Sep-2006 02:21 |
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Apakah "Pacenotes"?
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Intercom
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Please change my tyres now. I'm coming down very very very soon!
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Pacenotes say "River" but the driver thinks "Let's be a diver"
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Depa communicate pakai "Pacenotes" . Pacenotes is the main 'language' used between the rally driver and co-driver. Some explanation on co-driving:-
What does the Co-Driver Do?
A good co-driver is expected to be all things to all people, at times. On a rally, the co-driver is responsible for:
Understanding all the Rules and Regulations
Navigating between the Special Stages
Ensuring the Rally Car adheres to the correct time schedule
Reading the Map or Pace-Notes to the driver on the Special Stages
In addition, in smaller teams without a separate co-ordinator, the co-driver will normally be responsible for organising the whole team, both before and during the event.
More details on the duties the co-driver is normally expected to undertake is included in the "Co-Drivers Responsibilities" section.
It is important to realise that a rally is made up of both Special Stages (the competitive part) which are linked together with non-competitive Road Sections. The whole rally will follow a strict route and time schedule. While it is virtually impossible to get lost or make timing errors on the Special Stages, it is very easy for a co-driver to make these mistakes on the Road Sections. Even if a driver is quickest on all the Stages, a simple mistake by the co-driver can receive a heavy penalty and prevent the team from winning the event.
Co-Driver's Equipment
Helmet
Race Suit
Neck Brace
Trip Meter (calibrated!)
Foot Rest
Map Light
Seating Position.
Seat Belts
Pace Note Books
Co-Driver Bags
Intercom
Pacenotes
Pacenotes are a description of the rally stage, in shorthand form. This shorthand takes account of corners, speed of approach, distances, bumps, junctions, etc. Prepared by the crew together, these are read by the co-driver to the driver, in advance of each corner or distance, so that he can prepare for the corner to attain maximum speed through it, and therefore the stage.
You will also come across Route Notes. This is where the road is described similarly to Pacenotes, but no speed element, or driving lines are introduced. These are generally provided for the whole event, often on events where you are not allowed to recce.
Some common Pacenotes Schemes
"Numbers 1 to 9"
The number is approximately equal to the bend angle in degrees. (e.g. a "5" is 50°, a "9" is 90°)
Here is an example of a page of pacenotes using the 1 to 9 system.
"Numbers 7 to 1"
The number is approximately equal to the appropriate gear for each corner
Top Tip: Which is the best system of pacenotes? There is no "best" system – it is very much personal preference. Saying that, if you are totally unsure of which system to use, most people find "numbers" systems easier to learn and the 1-9 system is probably the easiest and most common.
For example a corner described as "Right 9 plus" may mean the corner is a bit tighter (slower) than a normal R9, or it is a bit faster than a R9.
Short distances are usually described as "and" and "into". Some drivers use "and" as a shorter distance than "into" because it is a shorter word; others use "and" as a longer distance that "into" which makes more sense if you consider the meaning of the word.
Another difference between notes is so people prefer the corner first, then the severity (e.g. Right 9), others prefer the opposite (e.g. 9 Right).
In all these cases, there is no "correct" way. (Although all driver believe that there system of notes is the only sensible scheme and cannot understand how other drivers can use anything different).
Top Tip: It takes a long time to learn how to make good Pacenotes. Practice on roads near your home, although you won’t be able to practice these at full speed (unless you have a test stage).
If you are making notes, then you need an appropriate book. Books with paper & bindings designed for the job are available, or you can use a note book from your local stationer. Propelling pencils are useful, as is a good plastic eraser. When writing notes, aim to get a complete series of notes on one line. Try to avoid splitting corners that are close together over more than one line (or worse, on two pages) as this will make it more difficult to read back.
Top Tip: Try to write your notes as neat as possible during the recce. Some people make rough notes during the day and write up neat versions in the evening. This is time consuming and prone to errors - it is much better if you can get it right first time.
Top Tip: At the bottom of each page, write the next couple of notes that appear at the start of the next page. This means you do not have to stop reading the notes as you turn the page and you can check you have not turned over two pages. Be very careful not to read the note out twice however and watch out for two pages starting with the same note.
Top Tip: Always number the pages in your pace-notes. One way to do this is to number the pages backwards – so if a stage has ten pages of pace-notes, start with page 10 and work backwards so the last page is page 1. Each page of pacenotes is typically just under a mile, so checking the page number will tell you approximately how many miles there are to the end of the stage.
Top Tip: Folding over the corner of every second page is a neat trick to prevent you turning over two pages at once.
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| Friday, 8-Sep-2006 22:00 |
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Aku, Satria & "Selut"
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Ladang Tebu, 2nd Day, Bright Morning, Full Throttle for L 3 Open
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Bermulalah era "selut" Ladang Tebu
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2nd gear,on throttle,left foot brake with less steering input
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It was indeed a valuable experience in rallying.The 1st rallycar experience was introduced by my beloved Abah, who is also my 1st and ever driving instructor in his ever reliable Nissan SSS, AN 3745. The experience of rallying in Sutan Mustafa's car and sharing the valuable onboard hours with the international-exposed co driver, Mr. Arish Qutb Khan has given the great opportunity to learn more about the inside-out of rallying. I truly hope to make a comeback, insyaAllah.I'm also taking my hat off to my other instructors, Mr. Lee Kwai Leong (K.L. Lee) and YM Tg Azizan Tg Ahmad, Head of R & D (Homologation & Testing) of Proton Berhad.
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| Friday, 8-Sep-2006 21:29 |
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| Friday, 8-Sep-2006 17:56 |
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Malaysia Rally Championship 2004, Rd 6, Chuping Perlis
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The experience gained in the MRC was tremendous. Unfortunately, luck was not on my side. The car brokedown at the very last SS, on the very last leg. Otherwise, we could have been crowned the 1st or 2nd in Class with the 5th or 6th overall.InsyaAllah, I'll be back. The Cikgu Jasmi legacy in rallying remains strong...
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| Friday, 8-Sep-2006 17:18 |
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Zafira Launch in Copenhagen & Test Drive To Sweden
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Actually I was looking at the 02
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At Opel HQ's Restaurant - Adam's. Adam Opel is the name of Opel
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Sports Pedal of 200BHP Zafira
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| Friday, 8-Sep-2006 16:19 |
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Zafira Launch - Copenhagen
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